Between that showing and New York Fashion Week: Men's, a new Rick Owens has appeared. As he emerged from his limo the night of the show, reporters remarked on his earlier Paris collection. However, his 2015 New York collection is markedly different. Reining in from the excessive draping of the drooping pants and wrapped upper bodies of last years runway show, he has created a collection that may prove to be more timeless. Although the designs are just as unique, the emphasis on fine leathers, worked fabrics and inspired draping, the fashions are eye-catching and still wearable.
Then one of the most surprising and tribal designers of our time, Rick Owens became a bit infamous for his 2015/2016 spring runway show in Runway Paris. The garments were strategically designed to show the models private areas. Some garments covered everything else on the models, accenting the keyhole construction.
Owens seems to have focused his energies on transforming fabrics and leathers with coloring and texturing techniques which really brought his looks together.
When asked about his personal style, he stated that he strives to give everything a worn, soft feeling like Lou Reed's music. ("Take a Walk on the Wild Side" 1972)
Owen's 2016 spring collection seems to have a Japanese influence. The thigh length leather or heavy fabric coats over long black leather or fabric shirts cover loose asymmetrical shorts. The term shorts doesn't seem to match the rich leather "short pants." (Owens may spawn a new fashion vocabulary to describe his innovative designs. ) The look is reminiscent of the samurai, echoed by the hair style of some of his models. Their hair/wigs were pulled forward covering their faces and jutting forward--looking like a samurai helmet.
His fabrics were layered, textured, dyed and bleached in a black and cream collection. Comfortable sheaths look sumptuous as the supple leather countered the harsher architectural design. If I were a man, I would definitely want to invest in his garments. They look wearable, fashion daring and comfortable.
The long leather jackets layered over thigh length leather shirts work without looking heavy because of the immaculate and pristine construction.
Although the first half of his collection is predominately black on black, for men prefer a less monochromatic palette, the second half of his collection pairs cream leather jackets, leather and tulle shirts with black shorts and lighter black jackets. In the cream jackets the attention to detail was more evident. Every element seemed carefully planned.
I did not expect to see such an amazing collection for Owens. While he has always been talented and refreshing, these looks could turn out to be visionary.